VC09 - Best Sushi

In a city where there are more sushi joints than Starbucks, the sheer volume can be overwhelming. Got deep pockets? Head straight to Tojo’s. For fresh, authentic, accessibly priced rolls, wrap your mind around these worthy spots.

Lime Japanese Cuisine
1130 Commercial Dr., Vancouver, BC
604-215-1130
Lime is a refreshing oasis among mediocre sushi joints that line the Drive. Executive chef Masa Kudo, formerly of Tojo’s and Blue Water Cafe’s Raw Bar, heads up the sushi bar with chef Atsu Inomata — both have serious culinary chops. Specialty maki include a lobster roll with mango, avocado, and tobiko in a pristine cucumber wrap. The Toro stack is a tower of sliced tuna belly topped with quail egg and green onion.

Octopus’ Garden Restaurant
1995 Cornwall Ave., Kitsilano, Vancouver, BC
604-734-8971
At this Kitsilano stalwart, chef Sada’s sushi list features playful flavour combinations: the popular Yellow Submarine incorporates yellowtail tuna, mango, tobiko, oba leaf, green beans, and crunchy tempura bits; the Business Class combines both barbecued and smoked wild sockeye salmon with avocado and asparagus. With prices ranging from $12 to $25, however, they sit at the upper end of the sushi scale.

Okada Sushi
M101–888 Nelson St. (second floor), Downtown, Vancouver, BC
604-899-3266
Tucked away on a second-floor perch, Okada is a hidden gem. Décor is simple and a little fusty, but the menu reflects oldschool authenticity. Traditional flavours such as shiitake tempura, natto (sticky fermented soybeans), squid, and shiso dominate the list of sushi rolls. Try the unagi battera: barbecued eel and sushi rice pressed in a wooden mould.

Toshi Sushi
181 E. 16th Ave., South Main, Vancouver, BC
604-874-5173
Arrive early or be prepared for the inevitable lineup and close-quarters seating at this tiny hole-in-the-wall — but you’ll be rewarded with some of the city’s freshest, most reasonably priced sushi. Toshi Saito’s craftsmanship shines in expertly prepared maki; his house roll sees shrimp tempura and cucumber topped with avocado. Toro (tuna belly) sashimi melts on the tongue.

Zen Japanese Restaurant
101–2332 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, BC
604-925-0667
The opportunity to sample chef Nobu Ochi’s exquisitely crafted, beautifully plated selection of sashimi, sushi, and innovative maki is well worth a trek across the bridge. The Special Scallop Roll is a rich wrap brimming with sweet chopped scallops, masago caviar, and Japanese mayo. Tickle your taste buds with the Hamachi Peak — yellowtail tuna, shiso, and green onions in a tempuracrisped tofu-crêpe blanket.

Zest
• 2775 W. 16th Ave., Kitsilano, Vancouver, BC, 604-731-9378
Shuraku
• 833 Granville St., Downtown, Vancouver, BC, 604-687-6622
Though different in aesthetics and style, these sister restaurants are both modern takes on classically grounded Japanese fare. Zest in Kitsilano is serene and elegant, and chef Yoshi Maniwa’s expert hand is readily apparent. Try Four of a Kind: slices of yellowtail tuna, white fish, red tuna, and octopus paired with four unique housemade soy sauces. Shuraku is Zest’s hip baby sister. Here, executive chef Masahiro Omori presents achingly fresh sashimi over crushed ice while rolling out inventive maki like his Red Torch Roll: barbecued salmon skin and cucumber topped with kimchi, kaiware sprouts, and golden tobiko roe, then drizzled with teriyaki and karash mustard cream. Closed Mondays.