Victoria

Once a bastion of Old World Britishness, anchored by the venerable Empress Hotel, Victoria has evolved into a hip metropolis with designforward shops, chic boutique hotels, and savvy restaurants.

Out & About

Check out Victoria’s new Design District — bordered by Store, Herald, Pandora, Fisgard, Government, and Chatham streets — with its warehouse-style design stores and intimate ateliers. Don’t miss:

Bespoke
Farrow & Ball paints and wallpapers, mega-thread-count bedding, luxurious towelling, and great accent pieces set the tone here. Jonalyn Siemens and designer Heather Draper offer custom-built, down-filled sectionals and elegant furniture pieces with heirloom appeal. Draper also offers home consultations. 517 Pandora St., Victoria, 250-298-1105.

Onlyhuman Gallery
Furniture designer Chris Rothery and partner Christina Stack converted the main floor of their condo into a modern home-décor showroom. Rothery’s gorgeous wood tables take centre stage; accent pieces provided by Jonathan Adler, Moooi and Droog, and Artecnica. 8 Dragon Alley, 532 1/2 Fisgard St., Victoria, 250-592-9712.

Inlet
Designer Kim Lowe reworks historic costumes with vintage fabrics, fur, bone, and leather into one-of-a-kind wrap skirts, accessories, clothing, and visionary handbags. The interior is festooned with Lowe’s collection of trippy curiosities. 533 Pandora Ave., Victoria, 250-385-6003

Dining

Red Fish Blue Fish
Sustainable seafood served wharfside out of a former cargo container. Get it grilled or deep-fried, with fries or wrapped inside a tortilla as their signature tacones. Local farmers provide the greens, and the surprise hit of tempura-fried dill pickles with housemade tartar sauce is a sweet-salty-crispy tour de force. 1006 Wharf St., on the pier, Victoria, 250-298-6877.

Pig BBQ Joint
The seductive aroma of smoked meats draws you into chef Jeff Hetherington’s tiny stainless-steel kitchen. Five bucks buys you slow-smoked brisket, pulled pork, or smoked chicken served on the requisite squishy white bun, slathered in house sauce, and topped with coleslaw for added crunch. 749 View St., Victoria, 250-381- 4677.

Niche
Chef Jason Leizert dazzles with innovative cooking in this contemporary room set in the shell of a Victorian-era heritage house. His appetizer of goat-cheese ravioli in brown butter finds almonds and pickled chanterelles perfect pals, and the main of Albacore tuna is served over a bed of sliced persimmons with carrot jus, parsnip purée, and an olive tapenade — sublime. Unique wine picks, especially strong on Island, B.C., and California wineries. 225 Quebec St., Victoria, 250-388-4255.

Getting There

By Ferry and Car — 2.5 Hours
Hourly sailings from Tsawwassen (40 minutes from downtown Vancouver) to Swartz Bay (a half-hour from downtown Victoria) in high season;
Bcferries.com

By Air — 25 Minutes
Orca Air, $29, departs from YVR. 888-359-6722; Flyorcaair. com. Harbour Air flies from downtown Vancouver to Victoria’s Inner Harbour. 800-665-0212; Harbour-air.com

Bed Check

Swans Hotel
506 Pandora Ave., Victoria
800-668-7926;
{Price} $159 to $299. Fully furnished two-level penthouse with rooftop garden, $895 per night.
{Design} Edwardian-era heritage building, impeccably restored with original wood beams. Well-appointed loft-style suites with full kitchens, leather armchairs and couches, antiques, and an impressive art collection.
{Amenities} Internet (some suites with Wi-Fi), treatment botanicals, fresh flowers, fruit, and bottled water.

The Oswego
500 Oswego St., Victoria
877-767-9346.
{Price} Studio suites from $209 based on single/double occupancy.
{Design} Modern West Coast, incorporating slate, granite, and brick, with lots of natural light. Artwork has a botanical theme and the bar area screens the Planet Earth series.
{Amenities} Cucumber-infused water in the lobby, Acca Kappa spa products, Internet, flat-screen TVs, French-press coffee, continental European breakfast.