Outdoor adventures aren't necessarily the main reason to visit the Gulf Islands. It's quite legitimate to spend five days shacking up in a B&B that serves organic espresso, buying pottery from a local artist and reading last year's magazines by a bay window overlooking the strait.
If such comforts on their own sound like an invitation to a coma, adventures are readily available. Seasonal activities include fishing, swimming, beach walking, scuba diving, bike tours, sailing and, best of all, kayaking.
The Gulf Islands, like the San Juans to the south, are renowned as some of the best kayaking in the world for the gorgeous scenery and frequent sightings of orcas and other mammals. Kayaking at night in bioluminescent waters is also, as the locals might say, a trip. But be sure to get expert advice or a guide: the strong currents and treacherous tidal phenomena are equally legendary.
Getting there: For ferry information, contact BC Ferries at 888-223-3779.
Contact Tourism Vancouver Island at 250-754-3500 or vancouverisland.travel for Gulf Islands travel info.
Kayaking: Batstar, 877-449-1230.
Tours: Great White Charters, 250-818-6050.
Insider Secret
One of the hundreds of artisans and artists who call this archipelago home also happens to be the world's fastest man on two pedals: Sam Whittingham holds the Guinness record for human-powered speed (a zippy 81 mph). The Quadra Island native translates his vast road, track, recumbent and mountain bike racing experience into lovingly turned out custom cycles. As much of an artist as an artisan, Whittingham designs and builds rides with elegant curves and genius geometry to specifically suit a rider's body and needs. Naked Bicycles and Design, 135 Heriot Bay, Quadra Island, 250-285-3181. — M.T.
Editor's Choice: Salt Spring Island
Salt Spring is the largest of the Gulf Islands, but that doesn't make it big city: the island attracts artists, bakers, cheesemakers and craftspeople who keep their studios open to the public. You can hit them all in one go at the Saturday market — where the rule is that vendors need to "make it, bake it or grow it" — or you can drive around on your own time (Studio Tour maps are on the ferry). A happy medium between the two is an Island Gourmet Safari (250-537-4118), where tour guide Wendy Hartnett will customize a tour of the studios according to your interests: fibre, food or art. You'll taste samples of food along the way, and a light lunch is included. Make sure Salt Spring Island Vineyards is one of your stops — and if the Apple Pie wine is pouring, grab a bottle for home.







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