The Area - Chinatown

With the completion of the transcontinental railway in 1885, the Chinese labourers who performed much of the most dangerous work settled into this area east of Gastown, founding what is now the largest Chinatown in Canada. Mandarin and Cantonese are the mother tongues in 30 percent of Vancouver homes, making Chinese the largest ethnic “minority” group. Designated a historic district, the distinctive character of Chinatown is evident in architecture that features unique recessed balconies and decorative parapets. A visit should include a tour of the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, the only authentic Chinese garden outside of China, and don’t forget to try the amazing dim sum this area has to offer. On weekend evenings in the summer, Keefer and Pender Streets transform into a bustling open-air night market with vendors hawking fake Rolex watches while elderly men engage in heated games of mah jong.

Eat:
A fresh-from-the-oven red bean bun while scoping the strange sea creatures in the tanks at T&T Supermarket. 179 Keefer Pl., (604) 899-8836.

Drink:
The Opium martini — vodka, Chambord, sparkling wine and soda — at the stunning bar of the pioneer of Asian fusion cuisine, Wild Rice. 117 W. Pender St., (604) 642-2882.

Browse:
Sleek, modern and functional home furnishings designed and manufactured by local Vancouver firm Bombast. 1654 Franklin St., (604) 251-2092.

Editor’s Choice — EDIBLE B.C.

Chinatown’s heritage structures and authentic restaurants are a great draw to the area, but it’s the dozens of markets, bakeries and teashops dotting the sidewalks that provide the real intrigue and atmosphere. For those not familiar with traditional Asian food preparation, the mountains of spices and produce are little more than colourful mysteries, let alone edible delicacies. But there are terrific deals to be had in this part of town — particularly in the seafood markets — and Edible British Columbia, a group specializing in foodie delights throughout the province, has created a Chinatown tour to solve the mysteries of the markets. Participants get a history lesson, then head to butchers, fishmongers, produce markets, teashops and herbalists, collecting samples and recipes along the way. The grand finale is a great Hong Kong-style brunch followed by free time to retrace your steps and test your new-found knowledge firsthand. (604) 812-9660.