Monterey, the first capital of California, calls itself the “most historic city in California.” Several self-guided and docent-led tours bring the city’s historical significance to life, including the Monterey Path of History tour. Set up by the Monterey History and Art Association, this tour covers more than 40 historical buildings in about 45 minutes. It is by far the most interesting way to see the adobe buildings where the Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo pioneers lived, worked, and traded.
Monterey is considered to have the best-preserved collection of historic buildings west of Williamsburg, Va. Perched above the crashing surf at Monterey Bay Plaza Hotel & Spa, the elegantly appointed waterfront rooms are perfect for watching a sunset or soaking up some sea air. Put on your sneakers for a pleasant stroll to downtown along the scenic Monterey Bay Coastal Trail, an 18-mile stretch of paved pathway that runs alongside Monterey Bay, where pedestrians and peddlers abound.
Be sure to make the Maritime Museum a destination, too. Located in the Custom House Plaza, it is home to more than 6,000 artifacts and 50,000 photographs chronicling the rich maritime history of the area. Just across from the plaza is Fisherman’s Wharf, the former center for commercial fishing activity, which now boasts souvenir shops, restaurants, and the Wharf Theater. Be sure to try some clam chowder. Many of the wharf’s restaurants offer free samples to passers-by.
To sample the early architecture of Monterey, pay a visit to the Custom House, an 1827 adobe and the oldest government building in California. A short cab ride away, climb a 1956 steam engine at Dennis the Menace Playground, designed by Dennis the Menace creator Hank Ketcham. If you happen to be in town on a Tuesday, check out local farmers, food vendors, and artisans at the weekly Monterey Farmers Market on Alvarado Street (from 4 p.m.). For a casual dinner, meander to Montrio Bistro, always a reliable bet. Small Bite menu options, such as Dungeness Crab Fritters and Oatmeal-Crusted Brie, plus the friendliest bartenders and best happy hour in town make this a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. For a more formal dining excursion, consider The Sardine Factory. Abalone is a Monterey delicacy and their version of the mollusk should not be missed.
GuestLife Romance — Date Night
What is more romantic than dining alfresco at a local farmer’s market followed by a movie at the Osio? Every Tuesday night, dozens of couples in the throes of love — and plenty more singles — flock to the Old Monterey Farmer’s Market on Alvarado Street to grab a bite from the many delicious food purveyors, peruse the crafts, or scout out fresh produce for the upcoming week’s meal-making. When the vendors pack up their tents at the market, your night can continue at the Osio Cinema. With six screens to pick from, this is the movie house for European, indy, and edgy flicks. All day on Tuesdays, movies are just $6. After the movie, grab a nosh and coffee at trendy Café Noir, also at the Osio.
If you prefer stronger brew, slip into the Crown and Anchor British Pub next door for heartier fare, 20 international beers on tap, and a full menu that is served until midnight.
GuestLife Don’t Miss — Lasting Impression
Among the greatest painters and teachers of the early California artists was San Franciscan Armin Hansen (1886-1957), best known for his maritime canvases. A former mariner in northern Europe, he often painted fishermen on docks and the shoreline in bold, post-Impressionist style.
One of his best-known examples is Salmon Trawlers (1918), part of The Jane and Justin Dart Collection at the Monterey Museum of Art, host of the ongoing exhibit Restless Seas: Works by Armin Hansen.
Hansen’s infallible sense of color and gutsy doses of paint punctuate his fascination with marine life on Monterey Bay. In the 1930s, Hansen’s work grew even more intense, with pivotal and dramatic use of light. One of his masterworks during this period was Sardine Barge (c. 1933), part of the museum’s collection.
Information: Restless Seas: Works by Armin Hansen at Monterey Museum of Art’s La Mirada location: 720 Via Mirada, Monterey. Open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays, 1-4 p.m. Sundays. Free to members, $5 nonmembers. Call (831) 372-3689.
Cannery Row — Fish Tales
A former sardine-canning district now bustles with tourists finding fun for the whole family.
Monterey’s fishing industry was born on Cannery Row, established by immigrant Chinese fishermen in the 1850s. What was once a bustling seaport that supplied fish mostly to San Francisco is now a visitor-oriented stretch with no working canneries. The one-mile strip (once called Ocean View Avenue) was made so famous by John Steinbeck’s 1945 novel Cannery Row that in 1953 the City of Monterey formally changed the street name to Cannery Row. When visiting Cannery Row, the Monterey Bay Aquarium is a requisite stop. Enormous tuna, pulsating jellyfish, playful sea otters, and a three-story kelp forest enthrall.
Emerge from the underwater sanctuary and take a stroll down Cannery Row, teeming with restaurants, cafés, and specialty shops. A Taste of Monterey is a favorite stop for wine connoisseurs. More than 85 wineries produce wine from Monterey County grapes, and A Taste of Monterey pours 20 of the region’s local gems. You can also rent a kayak (or arrange to take a guided tour) from nearby Adventures by the Sea.
